Hunter Valley

In today’s Wall Street Journal, there is an article expressing concern over this esteemed wine valley’s future because of the coal mining. Watch a video and see some pictures of Hunter Valley at wsj.com (article: Mines and vines clash in Australia) .

Privet hedges lining pathway to Winery

When we were visiting the one winery, we signed a petition against excessive mining. The pathway looked just like the one leading to my childhood home at 13 Washington Rd, Claremont, Cape Town, South Africa!

We were surprised to see how many top performers and stars visit Hunter’s Valley for festivals – posters up everywhere!

Anne and a local guide

While looking a a city map, a friendly local, one of quite a few volunteer guides roaming the city center, came over to help us plan our sightseeing and tell us about the history of the city. We then strolled along Melbourne’s golden mile, admiring the lovely shops. Melbourne has some interesting buildings, both Victorian and ultra-modern.

 Soon after one o’clock, we were picked up for our tour to Phillip Island.

Wombats!

We stopped for tea and scones with real farm cream at the Warrook Cattle Farm, and had a close encounter with the ducks and kangaroos running around.

Kangaroo Island kangaroo

At last, we came face to face with the big grey kangaroos we were expecting to see all over Australia!

Koala sleeping

We had a delightful time at our next stop at a Koala Center where, from walkways, we could have a close look at the dear creatures sleeping in the trees.

Then, it was off to the Phillip Island where, along the rugged coastline, 

Rugged coastline of Phillip Island

we saw a number of wallabies finding shelter against the wind, before we turned off to see the penguins. We were led to platforms with seating from where we had a grandstand view of the waves breaking gently onto the beach.

Stands to watch penguins

Entrance to Little Penguins

We did not have to wait long when, suddenly, little heads were bobbing together in a wave coming on shore, and out waddled about twenty little penguins.

Penguin parade (from internet)

They marched together towards the sand dunes and their burrows, parting ways as they reached their destination. This happened a few times, and we could walk along the gangways, accompanying them on their paths, but not getting too close.

What a magnificent event! Rangers counted about 600 penguins on  average crossing the sands early evening. No photography was allowed since the flashlights would harm their eyes.

It was back to Melbourne, but first, a stop at Cowes for dinner at an Italian restaurant, Isola di Capri. After a great day, we got back quite late. This was our last night in Australia, and we were quite sad to pack up. We were heading home to the USA early the next morning.

A rainy Melbourne

After breakfast at the Crowne Plaza Hotel, we took the shuttle to the airport. We arrived in a rainy Melbourne late afternoon. After settling in, we explored the city by taking the free tram that runs around the business center and harbor.

Barbara and Linda on the tram

The ‘burgundy-and-cream’ City Tram Circle is operated, free of charge, every 10 minutes, by Metropolitan Transit.

Bridal couple poses on steps

Cathedral

Melbourne Station, Flinders St

 On getting back to town center, it was pouring with rain, and we ducked into the nearest pub. A good choice, it turned out! The guide book actually recommended getting off at the Melbourne Station, Flinders St and taking a peek at the infamous Chloe painting in the Young and Jackson’s pub , and that is exactly what we did!

Painting of Chloe (copied from internet)

 A 19th century French academic nude painting by the master painter, Jules Lefebvre, the painting was a favourite with troops on R&R leave in Australia during the Second World War, especially US marines. It is a stunning painting and the one of such art and historical significance on display in a public hotel in Australia. Such is the significance of the painting that during the time the hotel was refurbished, it was moved to the National Gallery of Victoria where it was exhibited. The National Trust and Heritage of Victoria decreed in 1988 that both the painting and the hotel remain bound together forever.

Chloe's restaurant

We stayed for dinner at Chloe’s restaurant, and the three of us who settled for lamb cutlets agreed that it was the best ever!

Having read through my ‘tourist impression’ blog below, I decided to do some research on the internet to further my knowledge of this culture, and hopefully, to understand the Aboriginal people better. Having qualified that, here are my impressions:

 I found the ‘Aboriginal experience’ a very disturbing one. The people we came across were not outgoing, friendly or accommodating. In fact, we were pretty much warned to stay out of their way. The Aborigines we saw, especially in Alice Springs, seemed displaced. We saw quite a few groups of either men alone, or mixed groups, huddled together on the dirt in the park areas. It seemed that they lived there. We also saw and heard a few drunken brawls in the center of town in the morning. Unfortunately, there is a problem with alcohol consumption and gambling, which leads to social problems and crime.

Boomerangs

On the other hand, there was plenty of ‘modern-style’ Aboriginal art available. Aboriginal artists are certainly encouraged and promoted to create works of art, to decorate public property, to create beautifully varnished didgeridoos and boomerangs etc – but, I got the impression that the art and crafts has been steered, like in other countries, such as South Africa, so that it would please the tourists.

It was difficult to find out information about their history, culture and life. We had to string together what we gleaned from shops, tours and galleries – mostly on the tourist route. Australians did not seem to embrace the Aborigines as the New Zealanders embrace the Maoris.

In Kuranda and Alice Springs, there is a concerted effort to work towards better understanding between population groups, and also efforts to raise the quality of life.

Caterpillar Dreaming

 Be it as it may, the Aboriginal customs and beliefs are respected and taken into consideration, e.g. despite a severe shortage of housing and a desperate need to build more accommodation, the hills and land around Alice Springs cannot be developed because the Aborigines believe that they sprung forth from the caterpillars, which are the hills surrounding the town. I walked past such a sign on the way to the hotel .

Our guide told us that even Australians who are taken into confidence, will still not learn some of the customs and ceremonies that are still held too sacred to be shared. We were told that about 60% of Aboriginal women intermarry with other races today, but that the divorce rate was high, and these marriages created other types of social problems.

Terms like ‘dreamtime or dreaming’ kept on reoccurring. I bought a booklet on dreamtime, but it turned out to be a philosophical exposition, which did not clarify it at all. I found the best explanation on a framed poster in a gallery:

DREAMING

It is the secret life of the Aborigines. It is a life apart – a life of ritual and mythology, a life of sacred rites and objects.

It is the life where man finds his place in society and nature, and where he is brought in touch with the invisible things of the worlds of the past, the present and the future.

The Dreamtime is the mythological representation of what Aboriginal people carry in their minds. The source of life.

The knowledge has not just been planted in their minds, but structured and taught.

The main links to the Dreamtime are:

1 Mythology
2 Initiation
3 Ceremonies
4 Sacred rites

Grasseed dreaming

Many of the art works refer to ‘dreaming’, and art draws strongly on what is around them, e.g. leaves, food etc.

Lizard: token

There are definite symbols for various objects, e.g. a spear represents a man. Dots are characteristic to Aboriginal art, and are frequently used instead of lines.

Mural using dot patterns: totems

Circles indicate things that belong together, e.g. group of people, or waterholes or food.

I guess I still have a lot to learn!

Regarding music, the didgeridoo is of course the traditional instrument, and different techniques and sounds produced represent different objects, events and ‘dreaming’. Other sounds used in music would be e.g. playing sticks,  boomerangs, hand-clapping, buttock-slapping, seedpod shaking and foot-stomping.

How many miles are we from...?

Situated close to the very centre of Australia, Alice Springs is the country’s best known Outback town. We took it easy in the morning.

Red Dog Cafe and 0870

Anne and I walked to town for breakfast and browsing around.

In the afternoon, we had an Alice Springs Highlights Tour scheduled. We first visited the famous Mbantua (Aboriginal Cultural Museum and Gallery), home to a private collection of rare Aboriginal artifacts, bush tucker and art.

Maryln at entrance to Flying DoctorSchool of the Air Centers

Next, we thoroughly enjoyed our visits to the remarkable Royal Flying Doctor and the School of the Air - two unique Australian organizations that provide medical care and education to people in remote areas.

Post and Telegraph Office established in 1830

Our next stop was at the Old Telegraph Station where we studied the development of communication via Morse code.

  

The Source of Alice Springs

We found out where Alice Springs ‘originally’ got its name from (an indentation in the sand bed below the rocks where the water got trapped – giving the impression of a ‘spring’).

View from Anzac Hills

The tour ended with a stop on Anzac Hill with panoramic views overlooking the town, the rugged West MacDonnell Ranges, and the generally dry Todd River.  Apparently, the hills are regarded as holy ground since they are caterpillars from which the Aborigines originated.

Red Ochre Grill

Maryln and Linda went to a local pub and steak house, while the rest of us enjoyed ‘tapas’ and wine at before a last good night’s sleep in the Outback.

Sunrise at UluruAyers Rock at sunrise

I woke up very early and decided to go for a walk to a nearby look-out point to see the sun rise over Uluru. I got dressed, and off I trotted, camera around the neck. Lights were lighting up the gravel paths at irregular intervals, and I thought I was ok in the dark. I had to cross the one and only tar road at the next hotel entrance. As I got to the other side, my foot caught the unexpectedly high brick edge along the side of the road, and I went sprawling in the dust. Luckily, my jeans protected my knees, and my left shoulder shielded the camera – none the worse for wear! I sat through a beautiful sun-up with other interested travelers, and we shared some good stories.

Stuart Highway

On getting back, we strolled to a nearby café for a bite before getting ready for the six-hour motor coach transfer to Alice Springs.

Red Center pointer where we exchanged buses

We had entertaining and informed commentary from our driver/guide who highlighted points of interest along the way.

Erldunda Cafe

We traveled east from Yulara via Curtin Springs and saw Atila (Mt Conner) in the distance. Continuing east to Erldunda, we turned north onto the famous Stuart Highway. We stopped for a welcome bite at Erldunda Café, the only stop on the journey! We continued past vast Outback cattle stations and finally the 500-million-year-old West MacDonnell Ranges to reach Alice Springs, the town at the very heart of the Red Center. 

 We entered the town with a little trepidation, since our first stop looked very primitive, and our guide had just warned us not to walk around alone during the day and to take a taxi at night.

Flags on displayTrash can with Aboriginal art design

Among the fairly large population of Aborigines, there were unfortunately many with alcohol and gambling addictions, with the concomitant crime problems. There is a concerted effort to uplift and rehabiliate the community, install a national pride and promote the local art. It is amazing to think that the Aboriginal people have inhabited these lands for more than 20,000 years.

Crowne Plaza Alice Springs

Our deluxe Crowne Plaza Alice Springs met our expectations, though. It won accolades in part due to installing the largest rooftop mounted solar array in the southern hemisphere. We had great views from the balconies.

 Linda, Maryln, Anne and I walked to the Casino ‘next door’ (about 15 minutes!), and found a reasonable eating place for dinner.

The Outback from the air

We had breakfast at our Cairns hotel before boarding the shuttle to the airport for our flight to Ayers Rock. Flying over the vast outback, there was simply no life to be seen. The earth’s surface looked like some strange planet, with large salt lake formations.

Uluru or Ayers Rock

We flew over Ayers Rock, also known as ‘Uluru’, a giant stone monolyth with a luminous red center, as well as ‘The Olgas’ or Kata Tjuta, a group of large rounded rocks.

The Olgas

These are great symbols in Aboriginal traditions.

We settled in to the Sails in the Desert, Desert Park hotel. The interior decor focuses on Aboriginal heritage and culture, with a beautiful Mulgara Gallery in the lobby and significant artworks featured throughout the public areas and in the private rooms. There are about five different types of hotels and Outback accommodations, with shops and restaurants spread around Desert Park.

Swimming pool at Sails in the Desert

Anne and I proceeded to explore the complex by bus. I then met Judy and Barbara at the pool for a swim and a little basking in the sun, while Maryln and Linda went on a camel ride around the resort.

Interesting shrubs

We marveled at the desert type shrubs and trees, many in full bloom. Actually, a lot of the vegetation is very similar to that of the Karoo and semi-desert areas in South Africa. Even in Sydney, I recognized many species.

 One hour before sunset, we were ready for the award-winning “Sounds of Silence” experience.  

Aussie cowboy playing didgeridoo

The bus dropped us off next to the road, and we climbed a small uphill to where a lone Aussie cowboy was playing the didgeridoo.

Linda, Anne, Judy and Barbara sipping cocktails

As the sun set over Kata Tjuta and Uluru, we sipped champagne and nibbled canapes. In the half-dark, we then followed a lonely track to a secluded formal dining setting, complete with white table-cloths, in the middle of the desert.

Judy, Barbara, Linda, Elsa, Maryln, Anne Sounds of Silence Dinner

To ward off the chill and light up the area, heaters and torches were dotted around the tables. We enjoyed the company of two other couples at our large round table, one an Australian horse-trainer and her vet husband, and the other an American couple who were living in Sydney.

We had a great barbeque buffet with delicious local fish, lamb chops, kangaroo steak and unlimited wine, dessert and port.

The lights were extinguished, and in the dark, one could see the Southern Skies. An astronomer got up to explain the Milky Way and Southern Cross, its navigational role, and Aboriginal tales relating to different stars an constellations. We got a chance to look at Jupiter and its rings, and the surface of the moon through two telescopes. The evening was concluded with dessert, coffee and port. What a fabulous experience that was!

Freshwater Station

Once again, we had an early breakfast at the hotel, and waited for Down Under Tours to take us by coach to the historic Freshwater Station where, at 8:50am, we embarked on a 100 minute scenic Train Ride to the quaint, tropical village of Kuranda.

Barbara, Judy and Maryln on the train

Anne and Maryln on the train

We chugged past the rain forest and through 15 hand-hewn

Barron Falls

tunnels, stopping at Barron Gorge to view the Falls before arriving at beautiful Kuranda station.

Kuranda is home to a large community of artists who banded together to prominently integrate the arts in streets signs, benches, shops and on the pavements.

Aboriginal Art on the sidewalk

On the streets, there were some Aborigines playing the didgeridoo.

Aborigines playing the didgeridoo

The Heritage Markets and other shops provided plenty of opportunities for shopping.

Electric-blue Ulysses butterfly

We split up, and some of us visited the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary where we saw beautiful tropical butterflies, including the glorious electric-blue Ulysses butterfly, and the world’s largest butterfly, the Cairns. We were also taken on a tour through the butterfly breeding facilities.

Skyrail in Kuranda

 At the scheduled time, we took the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, a five-mile journey in a six-person cable car, HIGH above the canopy of trees in the rainforest. En route, we enjoyed two stops where we walked through the rainforest and visited the CSIRO Interpretive Centre.

Barbara, Linda and Maryln in Kuranda rainforest

We landed at Caravonica Lake from where the coach took us back to the hotel.

Balinese Rijstafel

We decided to dine at the award-winning Bali restaurant in the hotel. Maryln and I experienced a shared ‘Rijstafel’, comprising of a bowl of soup, a variety of small dishes and little side-dishes, and unusual little desserts, which we all shared.

Ocean Spirit Cruise

we got picked up at 7:35am for our Ocean Spirit Day Cruise. We spent the day exploring the Great Barrier Reef off Michaelmas Cay, a picturesque reef sand island.

Great Barrier Reef Island off Michaelmas Cay

Elsa snorkelling

Four of us snorkeled in the ocean – what a breathtaking experience awaited us when we put our faces

Anne snorkelling

in the water!

There was a life-guard on patrol in a boat, watching out for us, because, while drifting in the water, one is swept deeper into the ocean.

In the submersible

After a beautiful hot and cold buffet lunch, we all went in a submersible with glass windows for viewing the reef. We had a delightful day.

Returning Soldiers League (RSL)

That night, we decided to follow the advice given by an Australian friend of mine, and we found and signed in as one-day members at the Returning Soldiers League, entitling us to have dinner at their clubhouse and bar.